Are you on your career trajectory, ruthlessly climbing the corporate ladder, white-anting and backstabbing left, right and centre? Or have you got a wedding coming up and don’t fancy turning up in a moth-eaten rag that looks like a sack? Well chances are you’re in need of a new suit. Regardless of whether you wear one daily or only on special occasions, picking the right one can be a tricky excursion.
The place to start is with questions: What are you buying the suit for? Is it for everyday use at work or for one-off social events? Or do you sit somewhere between the two, and need a suit that can translate to both social and business worlds? Once you’ve worked that out you’ll have a better idea of what type of suit you need.
The next step is deciding how much you can bare to spend. The price of suits varies greatly, but so does the quality. The good news is you can get a decent wool suit from around $500. Spend any less and I would start to question the quality and how long the investment will last.
Cut
The American: Simple and forgiving
A traditional cut, lean silhouette, narrow leg and simple jacket, usually with a notched lapel and two or three buttons. The jacket has a centre vent and the pant is usually flat fronted, not pleated.
The British: Stylish and versatile
Similar to the American – traditional cut, two or three buttons and notched lapels – but the jacket usually comes with side vents (giving the jacket a more tailored fit) and the pants with pleats.
The Italian: Elaborate and not for everyone
Most Italian suits are double breasted and elaborate in their make up. They’re more detailed and bigger, which doesn’t always work for businessmen as they can be awkward to sit in and tend to hang open.
If you don’t wear suits often, I’d recommend going with a classic British or American cut. The Italian can look great, but is really only for the tall and strapping.
Colour
You can find suits in all different colours and patterns, including lovely pastels and stunning animal prints! But if you want a suit that you can wear year in and year out, or if you’re looking for your first, you’re best to go for a classic black, charcoal or navy, sans pattern or pinstripe. These will never go out of style.
Sizing and fit
Jackets are measured around the chest. The sleeves should sit below the wrist knuckle but no longer than the V of your thumb and index finger. It is not uncommon to have some shirt sleeve showing from under the jacket sleeve to get a layering effect especially if you have a shirt with cuff links. This adds some colour and interest to the suit.
Suits of all cuts can vary in how tailored/ fitted they are. Again the more traditional cut, something in a relaxed American or British cut, will be better value for money as you will get more wears out of them. Both come in a two button jacket, which will always be in style. Be wary of the three button jacket – height is needed to pull it off.
Pants are measured like all pants, around the waist. You should be able to fit your thumb between you and your waistband; any more or less and you may need some adjustments in the waist and seat. The pant leg should sit on the top of the sole of your shoe (or if you have your shoes off, the trouser leg should just be touching the floor). This way you get a nice break over the laces but you are not stepping on your pants when walking.
Some brands will offer different lengths in pants and jackets. Finding the right length and will mean less tailoring in the long run.
Traps and handy hints
• Pant/ jacket combos: Most brands sell jackets and pants together under the assumption that you’re top and bottom will match. If you’re not ‘average’ in size, look for retailers that will sell them separately.
• Alterations: Many retailers offer a tailoring service and can take care of basic adjustments for relatively little cost. When buying a suit off the rack it’s not uncommon for it to need some tailoring, which is well worth doing, but don’t buy one that needs extensive alterations as it can change the way it falls.
• Thread count: The higher the thread count, the more delicate the suit. An average suit will be around 100 which will wear well if you’re using it twice a week or so. Once you get up to 150 or higher, they become delicate, and while they fall well and look fantastic, I would advise against it unless it’s for special occasions.
• Fabric: Most suits are made of 100% wool. There are blends out there, but you can’t always trust the unnatural fibres they’re made of. Lightweight wool is better as you can wear it in any season, and in our climate you won’t need it too heavy.
• Quality: There are some tell-tale signs to watch out for when it comes to quality. Look for the quality of make around the shoulder, button holes and, if patterned or pinstriped, make sure that the patterns match up where the seams meet.
• Lining and interlining: A good suit should have a full lining, creating a barrier between you and the suit and making it easier to put on and take off. A good jacket will also have interlining to give it structure. This is the ‘bones’ of the suit; steer clear of anything that isn’t interlined.
• Pockets: Pockets should be lined and functional, not just pretend. On a good quality suit you’ll need to cut the pockets open after buying (don’t rip!).
• Cuffs: Pants can come cuffed or not cuffed. As a rule of thumb, cuffed is better for taller men, as it gives the leg a shorter look. It can make the short look dumpy though.
• Extending your suit’s life: Always buy two pair of pants, as it will double the life of your suit. Pants inevitably get more use than jackets and if they wear through there’s no guarantee you’ll be able to replace them with a matching pair.
• Dry cleaning: Don’t over process your suit. A suit should only be dry cleaned once or twice a season. Any more than this will over process the fibres and it will begin to get a shine about it. Also, make sure you dry clean the WHOLE suit so that all pieces wear at the same rate. You can always hang it up in the bathroom while you have a shower for a quick and easy clean in between.
Chris Byrne is editor of men’s style website www.man-brand.com.au
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