So French, So Close — Gay Life In New Caledonia Thrives In Surprisingly Sophisticated Nouméa. And So Does Robert La Bua.
Those of us lucky to be familiar with the French appreciation for all things sensual can gladly confirm the reputation of France as a land of lust for the best life has to offer. And so it is in Nouméa, capital of Novelle-Calédonie; add to that lust South Pacific sunsets and French military personnel stationed all alone far, far from home and you have the makings for a very interesting holiday, indeed.
LGBT travellers looking for a bit of French glamour with a tropical twist would do well to consider a visit to Nouvelle-Calédonie, a self-governing territory of France located about 1,200 miles east of Australia, on the same latitude as Queensland’s Rockhampton. Despite its relatively small population, Nouméa is a busy city with an alluring array of scenic bays and inlets to rival its pastry-shop displays in the art of seducing the island’s visitors. Water-sports enthusiasts and epicureans alike are in their element here, but Nouvelle-Calédonie has much more to offer than beaches and éclairs.
First, the water. Most of Nouméa’s best hotels are located along Anse Vata, including La Promenade, a Best Western Premier property that offers lovely apartment suites of various sizes ranging from huge to enormous and configurations to accommodate couples, families, or groups of friends having a good time on holiday. Anse Vata is ideal for splashing in the sea, but windsurfing is another popular activity here, with perfect conditions of smooth water and stiff, onshore breezes. Little ÃŽle Aux Canards (Duck Island) is only 1.1 kilometres offshore and is a popular destination for lunch and relaxation. Some people swim to the island, but a water taxi is available for the short ride over.
Despite the seductive call to far niente on the beach, one excursion not to be missed is a visit to the remarkable Tjibaou Cultural Centre, situated on a promontory jutting into Magenta Bay. This noteworthy structure, designed by Italian architect Renzo Piano, was the only grand projet outside mainland France authorised by former French President François Mitterrand in his drive to reshape the country’s cultural landscape. As are the other grands projets, such as IM Pei’s pyramide du Louvre and Dominique Perrault’s Bibliothèque Nationale in Paris, the Tjibaou Cultural Centre makes a formidable architectural statement that matches the importance of the function for which it was created.
Kanaks, the native peoples of Nouvelle-Calédonie, are fiercely proud of their traditional cultures, which are to this day very much a part of their daily life. To their immense credit in doing battle against the internet and Wii, cultural groups such as the dance troupe We Ce Ca are celebrated for their dedication in maintaining the relevance of traditional art forms to the islands’ youth. We Ce Ca sometimes perform at CREIPAC, which stands for Centre de Rencontres et d’Échanges Internationaux du Pacifique and works to promote the French language in the Pacific region from its home in a collection of historical buildings at the water’s edge in Nouville. CREIPAC is a great place to learn French through one of the courses of various levels and duration offered throughout the year; more than two thousand Australians studied here in 2009. Students range from high-schoolers to nonagenarians, with many non-native teachers of the French language coming to brush up on their skills.
One of Nouvelle-Calédonie’s biggest attractions is ÃŽle des Pins. Isle of Pines is aptly named; its beautifully verdant vegetation draws visitors who seek even more peace and quiet than found in Nouméa. Isle of Pines is an easy day trip from the main island of Grande Terre when taking an early morning flight from Nouméa’s Magenta Airport, which lasts all of twenty minutes; a ferry ride lasts only two hours.
Nouvelle-Calédonie’s proximity to Australia and New Zealand often works against it in its appeal since destinations close to home are sometimes taken for granted by jaded gay travellers who equate distance to quality. Poor jaded gay travellers. Others have no such reservations in making reservations for trips to a place where the bakers are as delicious as the croissants.
New Caledonia’s LGBT association, Homosphère, is a helpful organisation, a wealth of information for locals and visitors alike — and one that has unwavering government support. Believe it or not, Nouvelle-Calédonie, per capita, may just be one of the gayest destinations in the world. Though all clubs and bars in open-minded Nouméa are considered gay-welcoming, several nightspots such as Bodega Bar and MV Lounge are among the most popular with LGBT locals, and are without fail extremely friendly and welcoming.
Air Calédonie Internationale, cleverly shortened to Air Calin (câlin means something akin to ‘affectionate cuddle’ in French), is the territory’s airline based in Nouméa. Air Calin fly to both Brisbane and Sydney and codeshares with Qantas on some of its flights. With so many beautiful places to promote, New Caledonia Tourism South has the happy job of letting people know all there is to see and do in this part of Grande Terre, ÃŽle des Pins, and beyond. Once the fun of an itinerary has been decided, gay-welcoming Nouméa Discovery Tours can make your plans a reality, and Gold Coast-based tour company Rainbow Tourism, which specialises in lesbian- and gay-themed visits to Nouvelle-Calédonie, can do the same. Owner Dee Farrell is a passionate advocate of Nouvelle-Calédonie and sees to it that her clients are happily looked after when they visit the islands.
But why is a French territory in the South Pacific named after Scotland? Seems that Captain Cook found the rugged coastline of Grande Terre reminiscent of Scotland’s own shores, so he named the island New Caledonia.
I haven’t even mentioned the world’s largest lagoon, the colourful marine life in the sea, the exquisite dishes served in Nouméa’s chic restaurants. So much pleasure to pursue, but there is only so much that can be done on a holiday…which is why some visitors never leave.
MORE INFORMATION
www.aircalin.com
www.newcaledonia.com.au
www.rainbowtourism.com
www.noumeadiscovery.com
www.homosphere.asso.nc
www.lapromenade.nc
www.creipac.nc
www.adck.nc
Robert La Bua
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