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With the increasing costs and hassles of air travel, it is worth remembering that in Europe there is a great remedy to airlinitis found right on the ground. European rail travel is convenient, stress-free, and in some cases, even faster than flying. So, come along as OUTinPerth travel correspondent Robert la Bua takes to the rails of Europe.
There are Eurail Passes to suit everyone, from freespirited backpackers to well-coiffed socialites, both of whom can be often be found enjoying the velvety red seats of a First Class compartment. Unlike the generally standoffish ambience of an airplane, a rail compartment is conducive to conversation, and fellow passengers exchange thoughts on everything from Lonely Planet’s hostels to Holst’s The Planets. You never know who you will meet on a train – a Russian sailor waving goodbye to his wife as the train pulls out of the station, a Polish teenager polite enough to ask through gestures if the open window draughts were too cold, or a Hungarian gymnast with bulging muscles on his way to the sports institute.
The advent of the French Train à Grande Vitesse, more colloquially known as the TGV, revolutionised train travel on the Continent, and Europe has never looked back. Say what you will about the French, but they do know their food and their grands projets. They can be thanked not only for creating a national system of high-speed rail travel within their own borders but also for spurring other countries to get their rails systems up to speed – literally. Now, the Italians have the Pendolino, the Swedes the X2000, the Germans the Intercity Express (ICE), and the Spaniards the Trenes de Alta Velocidad (AVE).
Using a Eurail Pass is simple and offers considerable savings in cost when compared to individually purchased tickets, but there are definitely ways in which to make it an even better bargain. With high-speed trains bringing cities ever closer together, it is easy to make a daytrip to places previously requiring an overnight stay. Paris to Lyon, for example, or Paris to Brussels. Going and coming back in the same day is a huge bargain, especially if you opt for an Eurail Pass, such as Global Pass and Select Pass, that counts days of travel not travel segments.
It is also well worth opting for First Class travel, which is reasonably priced and a far more comfortable way to travel. First Class Compartments almost always have seats that ingeniously open flat by pulling them together so that seats opposite meet in the centre, allowing for comfortable sleep. Be aware that for IC Intercity and high-speed trains, reservations are compulsory and will cost a few extra dollars; in Scandinavia, reservations can be more expensive (up to $20 US, but you get WiFi on the train). Luckily, First Class is not typically crowded; nevertheless, it is always best to purchase reservations as soon as you are sure of your travel plans, especially if they involve travel on main routes at busy times of the day or week.
The German ICE trains are the exception to the reservation rule. Unreserved seats are there for the taking, allowing for the indulgence of walking up to the Hauptbahnhof (main train station) in Hamburg, Berlin, or Munich, buying a hot pretzel, looking at the Departures board, and asking, ‘Where shall I go today?’
Be aware that the UK, which has its own pass, does not participate in the Eurail Pass; Eurostar is also excluded, though it does offer Eurail Pass holders a discount, one of the many available. Certain private rail, bus and ferry travel, tourist attractions, and even Hilton Hotels offer discounts just for having a Eurail Pass.
Further adding to the allure of rail travel, in many cities the railway stations themselves are tourist attractions. The old Atocha station in Madrid was turned into a huge indoor tropical garden when the new station opened directly behind it; Nyugati Station in Budapest is a fine example of restoration after a train overran the tracks and smashed through its delicate glass wall; and every year, Zurich’s main station hosts an atmospheric Christmas market.
Most European capitals are now linked to their major airports by reliable train services that beat the traffic and inclement weather; some airports, like Amsterdam’s Schiphol and Charles de Gaulle in Paris, are major train terminals themselves, from which travel to points across the country and beyond are possible, completely bypassing the need to trek into the city centre.
The bottom line: it’s never been easier to “track†through Europe.
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