Robert La Bua visits Kyiv, also known as Kiev, the surprisingly avant-garde capital of Ukraine.

- Advertisement -

Who goes to Ukraine for a holiday? Those in the know know Kyiv, better known as Kiev, is a young and vibrant city of nearly five million people. Just like Australians, denizens of Kyiv make the most of fine summer days and enjoy outdoor activities alternated with urbane pleasures. Promenades along Khreschatyk, Kyiv’s main boulevard lined with impressive, no longer neo-Soviet buildings and chic shopping centres, are a favourite ritual. Khreschatyk ends at Bessarabsky Square, location of the must-see Pinchuk Art Centre.

Pinchuk Art Centre has been causing a stir in Ukraine since its opening in 2006 and the current exhibit shows why. Called Sexuality And Transcendence, it is an exhibit that Australia’s conservative protectors would never allow to be displayed. After all, there are children to protect! And who was in attendance in Kyiv? Adolescents in the latest fashions, adults with grandmothers in cheap polyester skirts and requisite kerchiefs, young couples with—say it’s not so—toddlers and grade-school children. So nice to see generations comfortable with the human body and its natural functions. Despite a graphic abundance of vaginas, penes, dildos, and various combinations thereof, not one person required post-exhibit psychiatric counselling, except perhaps the forlorn guard obliged to watch repeatedly a life-sized and astonishingly life like sculptured man ejaculate astonishingly life like semen several times an hour.

The Sexuality And Transcendence exhibit—which is free, by the way—also includes Kyiv’s famous Bessarabsky Market across the street, making for an even more surreal scene of wrinkled babushkas selling vegetables under enormous murals of attractive men and women in a variety of provocative images. Ukrainian women such as eternally gorgeous Kyiv native Milla Jovovich are famous for their beauty, but some Ukrainians are famous for other reasons. Zino Davidoff—think cigars and Cool Water—was born in Kyiv, as was Ballets Russes star Serge Lifar, whose ballet Suite en blanc was created in 1943 for the Australian Ballet and remains a component of its repertoire to this day.

Sexuality And Transcendence runs until 19 September. If you are unable to postpone plans to drop in on Dannii to see the new baby and can’t get to the exhibit before this date, Kyiv offers a diverse array of activities for visitors; they are the same as for residents. That is one of Kyiv’s most appealing aspects; because Ukraine is devoid of the oozing masses of tourists engulfing other European capitals in northern summer, it is easy to mix with the locals, among the friendliest of Eastern Europeans.

If outdoors is your style, Kyiv will please; it is one of the greenest cities in Europe, with large parks all over the city and vast parklands surrounding it. Museums abound, and fans of opera and ballet will be delighted to attend performances in Kyiv’s glorious Opera House, where the price of tickets—even the best ones—are so low that savings on tickets bought for a few performances can cover a considerable portion of other travel costs. So why not splurge for a nice hotel?

There are two great places to stay in Kyiv and both have gay connections. Radisson Blu Kyiv, located in the embassy district, is near the Opera House and the Golden Gate, one of the city’s most famous sights. Under the watchful eye of Kiwi Charles Otter, Radisson Blu is establishing itself as one of the city’s prime accommodation choices. Charles, a young but experienced veteran of international hotels across Russia, has come to Ukraine with his partner; happily, their relationship has presented no problems at all professionally or socially. In fact, Radisson is progressive enough a company to offer full spousal benefits to same-sex partners. While at Radisson, have at least one dinner in Mille Miglia, Radisson’s Italian restaurant, where handsome, courteous waiters increase the appetite and desire to make the meal last as long as possible while fantasising about the ultimate dessert.

The beautiful Hyatt Regency Kyiv is located just across the street from St Sophia, one of the many domed religious buildings that together constitute Kyiv’s best-known attractions. In the world of Hyatt, properties belonging to the Regency brand are not usually as deluxe as their Grand Hyatt and Park Hyatt brethren. This one, though, is an obvious exception; from first glance at the hotel’s trademark soaring atrium decorated in simple but elegant tones to the rooms themselves, the restaurants, the service, and the staff, everything here bespeaks top quality. Rooms ending in 35 have close-up views of St Michael’s monastery a block away. Breakfast was notable for its delectable, home-made cheeses—not something found in many five-star properties, but a welcome reminder of the agrarian roots of the country, still strong to this day. It took one glance at the hotel for half-Australian, half-British Director of Sales Richard Turner to resign his previous job and take up his position in Kyiv. Like Charles, Richard personifies a strong professional ethic in the hotel industry based solely on work performance rather than personal lifestyle.

Ukraine uses the Cyrillic alphabet, but don’t let it intimidate you; just pretend you are doing a word puzzle in the Sunday newspaper with each letter representing another one. If you don’t like puzzles, ask for help; many people speak good English and Ukrainians are delighted to help someone who has chosen to visit their country.

If you are looking to exchange more than smiles, Kyiv has several gay venues in a show of the increasing openness in this sophisticated capital, one of Europe’s oldest cities. Don’t expect Berlin or Barcelona, but enjoy the experience of gay life with a twist. If the sexual orientation of fellow clubbers is irrelevant, head for D’Lux, the current hotspot for Kyiv’s blasé beautiful people to eat, drink, and dance the night away.

MORE INFORMATION:

www.inyourpocket.com/ukraine/kyiv an excellent, indispensable guide to Kyiv’s events, attractions, and activities- click on Nightlife and then on Gay & Lesbian

Robert La Bua

***