Taiwan—for a holiday? Not often the first choice for Western Gaystralians, Taiwan offers one of the most laidback societies in Asia and its capital Taipei has one of its most developed homo-infrastructures. A glance at the world’s tallest phallic symbol, Taipei 101, will tell you that a male presence is palpable throughout the city.

Food is a celebration in this friendly and safe city where strangers talk to each other without wondering about any ulterior motive. Compared to nervous Nelsons in Mount Lawley, Taiwanese men are disarmingly secure in their masculinity, eliminating any need for petulance, bitchiness, or other versions of begayviour sometimes prevalent in our own country.

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Longshan Temple is another beautiful place to see the Taiwanese going about their activities with gusto. Many temples in Taiwan welcome people from different religions and they’re equally moved by the heavy with incense, but light of spirit, atmosphere. Longshan Temple’s amazingly detailed roofs are rich in classic Chinese architectural detail.

Kuantu Temple, the oldest temple in northern Taiwan dedicated to Matsu, Goddess of the Sea, is located on a hillside and has beautiful views of the blanket of smog under which lies the city of Taipei. The temple is in a complex with several outbuildings (also built in temple style) with lots of ceramic and painted decoration inside and out. Kuantu Temple is known for two pedestrian tunnels dug through the hill on which it stands, at the end of which is a small esplanade with a view over the river. The tunnels are lined with statues and bas-reliefs of gods and their attendants. The gardens are just as impressive—with lots of landscaped and sculpted shrubs, trees with flowerbeds in full blossom and a few well-placed statues to boot.

Taipei is also home to the largest museum of Chinese art in the world—National Palace Museum, set in a beautiful hillside location in the city’s northern suburbs. It should not be missed; allow at least half a day to have ample time to cover a substantial portion of the collection.

The best sights in town may very well be the nonsensical English so prevalent on Asian signs and t-shirts (I saw a girl wearing a t-shirt saying I’m Fine Muck and hoped she wasn’t). If you leave Taipei seeing only one sight, however, make it the Museum Of World Religions, a short cab ride from the Far Eastern Plaza. You will not be bored; there are multimedia and interactive displays about ten of the biggest religions in the world. Don’t let the word religions turn you off either; it is not a recruitment centre for the sect du jour, but rather a centre for thoughtful enlightenment… with pretty pictures.

For chic sheets, try either the Grand Hyatt or the Far Eastern Plaza; both are superb. Grand Hyatt enjoys a privileged position directly across the street from big, thick Taipei 101 and is well positioned for forays to the eastern part of the city to visit the incredible Living Mall—well worth a visit for shoppers, video arcade junkies, and bungee jumpers. The Raohe Street Night Market is also a fun outing; for pork bun aficionados, the cart at the far eastern end of the market is a must (Personally, I visit Taipei for its pork buns). Other market delights include finding just the right souvenir and getting the fine hairs pulled out of your face by a professional hair remover rolling a string across it.

Far Eastern Plaza is the Taipei property of the fab Shangri-la Hotel group. What do you expect from a Shangri-la? Everything. What do you get? Everything and then some. Central to the bustling shopping district around Zhongxiao E Road, the Far Eastern Plaza is just up the road from the fantastic Eslite Bookstore, an open-24 hours, boon to The Jetlagged.

Hong Kong’s outstanding airline, Cathay Pacific, has a virtual shuttle running frequently throughout the day between Hong Kong and Taipei and provides easy connections for travellers originating in Perth. Business Class on Cathay Pacific is a favourite of gAy-list travellers seeking airborne indulgence while well bathed in champagne.

For information on Taipei’s substantial lesbian and gay scene, visit Utopia online.