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Robert La Bua ignores bad press for good times in Papua New Guinea.
It’s not surprising that Papua New Guinea is misunderstood; no nation with 867 languages is easily explained. From tropical islands to mystical highlands, this enigmatic but little-visited country has been the source of fascinating stories for centuries. Though headhunters are no longer their families’ (sweet)breadwinners, Papua New Guinea still conjures images of the most primal of human cultures, now battling to survive the encroachment of modern life. Though there is no gay scene to speak of, something mysteriously sexual lurks in the wide smiles and dark eyes of handsome men with robustly muscular physiques honed not from reps but from labour. What a bizarre concept.
PNG is frequently referred to as a primitive destination, yet the intricate social structures throughout the island nation contradict this perception. The wan tok (‘one talk’) system ensures members of the same clan and language group are looked after in time of need and protected from outside threat. On the islands of Milne Bay Province, the kula ring exchange system strengthens ties between family groups and keeps tradition relevant to contemporary life. The international press inevitably exaggerates the country’s reputation as a lawless land of banditry, a reputation that is neither totally undeserved nor completely accurate. To some that reputation is an attraction in itself, one that belies the many attractions of this beautiful country populated by some of the friendliest people on the planet, not to mention hundreds of species of butterflies, birds, mammals, and flowers not found anywhere else in the world. Orchids abound, as does the cute cuscus, a furry arboreal creature, though it may be more often seen barbecued at the local market than dozing in a tree. In reality, PNG’s biggest danger is village fatigue, an affliction acquired by visiting too many of the very interesting (and interested) communities where traditional life continues as it has for centuries, albeit now with skirts of cloth instead of grass.
PNG’s most famous region is the culture-rich Sepik River, but there is much more to the country than this well-known area. The island groups of Milne Bay Province, for example, are tropical getaways straight out of a citydweller’s imagination; the Louisiades are a series of idyllic islands sparsely populated or totally uninhabited, where coral reefs and shipwrecks shelter a colourful panorama of tropical fish. The Trobriands, famous for the cultural practice of free love – for locals, not visitors – are the source of some of PNG’s finest woodcarvings, coveted by collectors worldwide.
Rabaul, once called the nicest town in the Pacific, is now an ash-covered wasteland thanks to the simultaneous eruptions of Mount Tavurvur and Mount Vulcan in 1994. The slopes of Mount Vulcan are home to the beguiling Baining tribe whose firedances are famous throughout the country. Wearing huge masks and adorned with shells, bone, teeth, and grass, Baining men do not dance around the fire; they dance IN it and through it, barefoot and in a state of trance.
For an aromatic taste of highland culture, visit Goroka, home of the well-known mudmen of Asaro, who wear clay masks and little else. Goroka Province’s graceful landscapes are picturesque; the fertile slopes are perfect for growing coffee. At 1600 meters, Goroka’s climate is a refreshing change from the coastal heat and humidity.
Wherever you go, you will inevitably pass through the country’s infamous capital, Port Moresby, as it has PNG’s only international airport. Bereft of charm or attractions, Moresby will probably see you sleeping there at least one night in your journey. If so, make it a night at the lacklustrely named Airways Hotel – but don’t be fooled by its bland appellation; Airways is the best hotel in the country and is just minutes away from the airport.
The ultimate escape from reality, though, is found in Tufi. Set among volcanic fjords, Tufi’s lifeblood is Tufi Dive Resort, which attracts divers and nondivers alike. The location is spectacular, the main house welcoming, the rooms comfortable. Tufi Dive Resort may also be the only place in Papua New Guinea besides Airways where food is transformed into fine cuisine. If you ever dreamed of escaping from it ALL, this is the place.
Orion Expeditions offers the easiest and most comfortable way to visit these isolated dots on the globe. Orion is well-known to upscale cruisers, who acknowledge it as one of the most personal cruising experiences in the world. The excellent staff make sure your every need is met, and the expedition leaders have a vast body of knowledge of places visited.
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