As Robert La Bua discovers, The Sultanate Of Oman is hot in more ways than one.
Forget the ubiquitous eucalyptus scent of sex club disinfectant; the exotic wafts of Omani fragrances such as the fabled and fabulous frankincense are much more appealingâ€â€as is the country in general. While not an obvious gaystination along the lines of Berlin, Cape Town or Palm Springs, Oman offers adventurous travellers a friendly, exotic and non-judgemental experienceâ€â€and the eye candy can be as sweet as Turkish delight. Oman is also very safe with one of the lowest crime rates in the world.
The Sultanate of Oman, the Arabian Peninsula’s friendliest, most alluring travel destination, is home to many appealing attractions besides gnarled frankincense trees. In Muscat, a visit to Bait Al Zubair, a little museum of traditional Omani life, enlightens visitors to Omani dress, jewellery, and hairstyles, each of which communicates the origin and status of the wearer. Directly across the street from Bait Al Zubair, Bait Muzna Gallery is a chic place to find select antiques, gift items, and modern Omani art.
Beyond Muscat, Wadi Shab and Wadi Tiwi are both picturesque spots along the coastal road to Sur. Ras Al Hadd and Ras Al Jinz are among the busiest egg laying beaches in the world for green turtles, who come ashore to perpetuate their genes. If you think standing around on a pitch-black beach staring at a torch-illuminated turtle’s arse is not fun, you obviously have never done it. Visitors come from far and wide to see the massive creatures drop their pingpong-sized rubbery eggs into small sandpits. Early risers get to the beach to see the spectacle in daylight – you just may be lucky enough to catch a matinee. The turtles come ashore in the heat of Omani summer, which, despite dire warnings, is no worse than the heat and humidity of Bangkok or Kuala Lumpur.
The city of Nizwa, once the capital of Oman, is home to two sights redolent of the past –Nizwa Fort and the Old Souq. The fort is large and well positioned (as forts are) for extensive views over the landscape. The Old Souq is where real people (as opposed to tourists) shop for real items. Birkat Al Mawz, an unexpectedly lush settlement close to Nizwa, is the apotheosis of a desert oasis.
In the southern Dhofar region of Oman, a 90-minute flight from Muscat, Salalah attracts European visitors in winter eager to escape the cold and grey at home. In summer, the misty khareef season rolls out a green carpet of lush vegetation as well as a bounty of coconuts and tropical fruits exotic for the Arabian Peninsula. It is in Dhofar that the treasured frankincense tree oozes with charm and sap; they can be seen along the spectacular mountain road beyond al-Mughsayl, whose mercurial beach would be reminiscent of Ireland if not for the camels ambling along the sand. Frankincense resin crystals are easily purchased at the al Husr souq, where exotic perfume ingredients are displayed for shoppers to select in creating a melange of fragrances prepared and bottled to order.
There is no shortage of deluxe accommodation in Muscat, where such upper-end stalwarts as Shangri-la, Intercontinental and Grand Hyatt all offer high levels of service in lavish surroundings; Grand Hyatt is particularly notable for its famously (some would say) over-the-top decorative tribute to Arabian culture, where a rotating statue is prominently featured. Intercontinental’s central location is great for shoppers, while Shangri-la’s idyllic beachfront location on the city’s edge makes it a favourite for aquanauts and beach lovers.
Oman, a traditional culture with modern conveniences, is an automobile society. Distances are considerable, and the independence of your own vehicle will allow you to visit many places not accessible by public transportation. Zahara Tours is a professional outfit that can arrange an SUV and driver to take you anywhere in the country. This is a necessity for those who want to ride the sand dunes or go to remote locations where local knowledge is invaluable. If you are lucky, your guide will be charming, suave and mysterious. Call me lucky….
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Note to GLBTIQ Travellers: Oman, like many Muslim countries, has laws against homosexuality. Travellers should be aware that homosexuality is punishable by up to 3 years in prison. Before departing on any trip, check travel advisories and be informed about the local customs and how to travel safe.
